Torbreck Runrig Shiraz Viognier 2021

It’s one of a handful of super sensational Shiraz Viognier from this great country, and the ability of this cuvée to speak so eloquently of both the Barossa and its harmonious varietals is impressive to say the least. So is, while we’re discussing it, the density and volume of the wine. On the nose, the 2021 RunRig is savory and meaty, with charry oak at the fore, backed by black cherry, graphite, dried rose petals, red and purple fruit, flowers and black tea. There is both detail and density. On the palate, the wine is both silky and huge. It’s momentous, long and complex. It’s like the volume has been turned up in every possible way, and what I know of sound mixing is on show here; it’s a loud mix, but all the elements are perfectly in balance. And ultimately, that’s what’s up. Like Nick Cave, it’s got it all, and it does it with conviction and intellect. It’s a great wine, from a great season. Bigger than perhaps ever before.

Expressive, lifted aromas of black fruit with a hint of ripe stone fruit overlaying bitter chocolate. A generous, rich palate with fruit of great purity, intensity and definition; notes of baking spices and liquorice and fine-grained tannins beneath extraordinary silky smoothness. Layered, very long and will probably still be going well in 2050.

2021 Runrig will make you turn your head while you gawp in disbelief. This wine is something I have never seen in Runrig before - an immovable mountain of terroir, monolithically anchored in its core. Standing at the foot of this gargantuan flavour, I could not see the summit. There is so much ravishing Shiraz skin draped decorously around this totemic terroir it appears wholly demonic and fear-inducing. But the fruit notes are as refined and finely tuned as ever, providing the taster with a baffling counterpoint between the Dark Side and a Venetian dandy, resplendent in its filigree and finery. I cannot remember seeing two such opposing characters in one wine before, and every time I went back to the glass, there was more to admire, and these elements fuse and shape-shift into a glorious amalgam of sophistication and power. Of course, it deserves a perfect score. This wine is unique and uniquely stunning. I wish I could attend every opening of 2021 RunRig – oh, to be a fly on the wall, listening to the gasps of delight when people are lucky enough to taste this wine.