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94 Points
Quiet power and classical structure define this rare Clare Valley Malbec from one of Australia’s most traditional estates. The 2012 Wendouree Malbec comes from the historic Wendouree vineyard in the Clare Valley, a property first established in 1893 and still farmed with an uncompromising focus on low yields and vineyard expression. Wendouree’s approach remains intentionally old-school, with dry-grown vines, minimal intervention and long maturation in seasoned oak barrels to preserve fruit purity and structure. The 2012 vintage in Clare Valley delivered excellent ripeness and concentration, allowing the Malbec variety to show both its dark fruit depth and savoury complexity.
In the glass the wine reveals a brooding aromatic profile, where black fruits, spice and earthy notes unfold slowly with air. The palate is firm and structured, built on dense fruit, fine tannins and remarkable persistence. While powerful in its youth, the wine carries the hallmark Wendouree balance that allows it to evolve gracefully with time in bottle. Layers of dark plum, blackberry and graphite develop alongside savoury undertones as it opens. With patience, the 2012 Wendouree Malbec promises decades of evolution, reflecting both the longevity of the vineyard and the house’s unwavering commitment to traditional Clare Valley winemaking.
Quiet power and classical structure define this rare Clare Valley Malbec from one of Australia’s most traditional estates. The 2012 Wendouree Malbec comes from the historic Wendouree vineyard in the Clare Valley, a property first established in 1893 and still farmed with an uncompromising focus on low yields and vineyard expression. Wendouree’s approach remains intentionally old-school, with dry-grown vines, minimal intervention and long maturation in seasoned oak barrels to preserve fruit purity and structure. The 2012 vintage in Clare Valley delivered excellent ripeness and concentration, allowing the Malbec variety to show both its dark fruit depth and savoury complexity.
In the glass the wine reveals a brooding aromatic profile, where black fruits, spice and earthy notes unfold slowly with air. The palate is firm and structured, built on dense fruit, fine tannins and remarkable persistence. While powerful in its youth, the wine carries the hallmark Wendouree balance that allows it to evolve gracefully with time in bottle. Layers of dark plum, blackberry and graphite develop alongside savoury undertones as it opens. With patience, the 2012 Wendouree Malbec promises decades of evolution, reflecting both the longevity of the vineyard and the house’s unwavering commitment to traditional Clare Valley winemaking.
“A deeply structured Malbec with dark plum, blackberry and earthy spice. The palate is firm and concentrated with excellent depth and length, built for long ageing.”
“Powerful yet controlled, showing dense black fruit, graphite and savoury complexity. The tannins are substantial but finely balanced, suggesting excellent cellaring potential.”
“Intense and traditional in style, with dark berry fruit, spice and earthy depth. A structured and ageworthy Clare Valley Malbec with impressive persistence.”
Wendouree has remained one of the quiet benchmarks of Australian wine since the vineyard was first planted in 1893 by Alfred Percy Birks. Today, Tony and Lita Brady continue the estate’s deeply traditional approach, preserving a style shaped by old vines, low-intervention viticulture, and an unwavering connection to place. Situated on an easterly ridge on the northern edge of South Australia’s Clare Valley, the unirrigated vineyards are rooted in shallow red loam over limestone, conditions that naturally limit yields and intensify concentration.
The estate’s oldest Shiraz vines, many dating back to the original 1893 plantings, are believed to contain genetic material linked to the historic James Busby collection. These low-yielding vines produce small berries with thick skins and high seed content, giving Wendouree wines their structure, depth, and longevity. In the winery, the approach remains deliberately restrained and largely laissez-faire, allowing vineyard character and seasonal variation to define each release rather than heavy-handed winemaking.
Despite the estate’s standing among Australia’s most revered producers, older bottles remain remarkably scarce. Until 1974, Wendouree wines were sold in bulk to merchants for bottling and distribution, meaning many early wines were blended or released without estate labelling. That rarity has only deepened the reputation of Wendouree Shiraz, now regarded as one of the country’s most distinctive and enduring expressions of old-vine Australian Shiraz.
Established in 1892, the Clare Valley vineyard remains the foundation of Wendouree’s wines. Across just 12 hectares, the site preserves a rare collection of old vines, including bush-trained Shiraz planted in 1892 and 1893, along with Mataro grafted onto 1898 rootstock. The eastern block includes Shiraz planted in 1919 and 1920, plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec grafted onto 1920s rootstock. The youngest plantings date from 1975 and the early 1980s, offering a living record of Clare Valley viticulture.
The unirrigated vineyards are planted predominantly on red loam over limestone, with smaller sections of shale and sandy loam adding further complexity. Elevations range from 450 to 530 metres, yet the reds are typically harvested earlier than elsewhere in Clare Valley. Naturally low yields, averaging just under 30 hectolitres per hectare, produce wines of concentration, structure, and balance.
Winemaking remains deliberately traditional. Fruit is hand-harvested, basket pressed, and fermented in open-top fermenters with manual plunging. The wines undergo malolactic fermentation in stainless steel before maturation in 300-litre fine-grain French oak barrels, around 25% new, for approximately 12 months. Blending takes place after ageing, with bottling carried out using only a light filtration.
Aromas of blackberry, dark plum and blackcurrant layered with notes of graphite, dried herbs, cocoa and subtle earthy spice.
Dense dark fruit flavours of plum and blackberry supported by firm tannins, savoury spice and mineral undertones that add depth and tension.
A persistent finish with lingering dark fruit, cocoa and earthy complexity, framed by structured tannins and impressive length.