Tolpuddle Pinot Noir 2022 1.5L

Impressively deep, rich purple-red colour, unusual in Australian pinot noir. The bouquet is loaded with black cherry, blackberry and spice aromas, a hint of smoky oak adding charcuterie and five spice nuances, while the palate is voluptuously full and rich, decadently flavoured, with luxurious flesh and fruit, abundant fine/soft tannins and terrific length. There are some whole-bunch nuances which are beautifully incorporated into the wide array of flavours. A totally convincing and thoroughly impressive Aussie pinot noir to compare with the best in the world.

Tolpuddle has firmly cemented its position at the pointy end of the Tasmanian pinot noir pyramid, consistently producing knockout wines that have become a benchmark for the region. Nothing changes with the 2022 release, which shows wonderful fruit intensity and oodles of pinosity in a graceful package. Lovely pure dark cherry and wild strawberry fruits, cut with exotic spice, charcuterie, roasting game, shiitake broth, amaro herbs, purple floral tones and complex forest floor notes. Textural and elegant yet with an undercurrent of latent power and intensity, a tight tannin frame and a long finish that shows balance and poise. Just wonderful stuff.

There’s a fair few primo 2022 pinots from Tasmania out there that seem kind of bony and firm, and this joins the ranks. Structure and seriousness aren’t missed in the wines, but a sense that 2022, from all over the vast Tasmania GI, are a restrained lot. With some air time, this wine opened with some prettiness, so a decant or airtime is ideal. A racy pinot noir, tense with a sheath of graphite-laced tannin, set to cedary, mahogany oak seasoning as a strong currency, and laced with dark cherry, panforte, hazelnut and twiggy herbs, with a gentle smoky spice element in tow. It drives with its frisky acidity, a feature that keeps the wine refreshing and edgy, reminiscent of wines to be drunk a while down the trail. I liked the wine more with time spent with it, evolving attractively and offering more perfume and flavour as the hours went by. Serious stuff here, for those seeking pinot of firmness and architecture.