Thomas Wines Cellar Reserve Braemore Semillon 2017
Born and bred in McLaren Vale, Andrew ‘Thommo’ Thomas reckoned he had it all figured out. He would graduate from Roseworthy and pursue a career in South Australia, following in the footsteps of his father, Wayne Thomas. And then fate stepped in. Between semesters, Thomas took on a vintage at Tyrrells. Here he met and worked under larger-than-life Murray Tyrrell and his experience in the Hunter would imprint on Thomas for life.
Put simply, bottle-aged Hunter Semillon lives in a house of its own, and Andrew Thomas crafts one of this rare style’s beacons. Released after six years of bottle age in a climate-controlled cellar (held at 15°C), the Cellar Reserve Braemore is Thomas’ emblematic wine. Thomas believes his Braemore Semillon really starts to reach its peak expression at 10 years old, but releases this wine at six, when the wine’s youthful citrus and green tones are starting blossom to those iconic flavours of toasted brioche, honeycomb and grilled nuts.
The 2017 vintage was a warm and relatively dry season, and the start of a four-year extended drought period in the Hunter Valley. The vintage conditions have produced slightly riper/muscular shiraz and beautifully long-lived Semillon. The pedigree of the Braemore vineyard was evident again this year with the fruit achieving a perfect level of fruit ripeness whilst retaining excellent natural acidity.
This wine is just starting to emerge with those classic bottle-aged Hunter Semillon complexities. Brilliant medium lemon colour with a vibrant green hue. An elaborate nose of fresh citrus and stone fruits and hints of dandelion tea, flint, toasted sourdough and grilled nuts.
The palate is just entering the realm of bottle age complexity. The flavour delivers waves of barbequed lemon and lime, ripe pear and starfruit alongside lemongrass, roasted cashew nuts and buttered toast, just to name a few. Its seductive and saline texture is balanced by a soft yet lively acidity. A unique and seamless wine and whilst it is in a superb drinking zone right now, it will continue to evolve over the next decade or more.
Light quartz green, a seriously delicious semillon, makrut lime to the fore, then polished acidity, balance, line, length and purity. - James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion, 97 Points.
The Finer Details
Style - White Wine
Varietal - Semillon
Country - Australia
Region - Hunter Valley, New South Wales
Vintage - 2017
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 10.9%
Closure - Screw Cap