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97 Points
The Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2024 is a rare, intensely selected sweet Riesling from the celebrated Graacher Himmelreich vineyard in Germany’s Middle Mosel. At Joh. Jos. Prüm, Goldkapsel wines represent limited-production selections made from particularly concentrated Auslese fruit, commonly incorporating a proportion of botrytis-affected grapes. More than half of the fruit used for this 2024 bottling was affected by botrytis, contributing additional richness and aromatic complexity while preserving the estate’s characteristic delicacy. Graacher Himmelreich is classified as a VDP.GROSSE LAGE® and faces south-southwest to southwest on slopes protected from wind by the Mosel Valley. Its readily warmed blue and grey slate soils are crossed by natural water channels that help supply the vines with moisture throughout the growing season. The Joh. Jos. Prüm parcel is oriented further west, with somewhat deeper soils and a slightly gentler gradient than the estate’s holdings in Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
The grapes were harvested by hand and underwent spontaneous fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. Harvest began on 1 October, and warmer conditions later in the month allowed selected grapes to reach Auslese and Goldkapsel ripeness before picking concluded on 31 October. The official technical information identifies apricot, apple, slate, orange zest and walnut among the wine’s defining characteristics. Additional aromatic complexity emerges through lilac blossom, mint, tansy, lichen and delicate herbal notes. The palate is rich and creamy, with smooth ripe peach and botrytis-derived concentration balanced by vibrant acidity and slate-driven salinity. Orange-zest freshness provides definition and restraint, preventing the natural sweetness from becoming heavy or excessive. At 8% alcohol, the wine combines considerable concentration with the lightness and refinement for which the finest Mosel Rieslings are renowned. Its freshness, sweetness and mineral structure indicate exceptional potential for extended bottle ageing. It can accompany seafood, white meats, spicy Asian dishes, savoury cheeses and fruit-based desserts.
The Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2024 is a rare, intensely selected sweet Riesling from the celebrated Graacher Himmelreich vineyard in Germany’s Middle Mosel. At Joh. Jos. Prüm, Goldkapsel wines represent limited-production selections made from particularly concentrated Auslese fruit, commonly incorporating a proportion of botrytis-affected grapes. More than half of the fruit used for this 2024 bottling was affected by botrytis, contributing additional richness and aromatic complexity while preserving the estate’s characteristic delicacy. Graacher Himmelreich is classified as a VDP.GROSSE LAGE® and faces south-southwest to southwest on slopes protected from wind by the Mosel Valley. Its readily warmed blue and grey slate soils are crossed by natural water channels that help supply the vines with moisture throughout the growing season. The Joh. Jos. Prüm parcel is oriented further west, with somewhat deeper soils and a slightly gentler gradient than the estate’s holdings in Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
The grapes were harvested by hand and underwent spontaneous fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. Harvest began on 1 October, and warmer conditions later in the month allowed selected grapes to reach Auslese and Goldkapsel ripeness before picking concluded on 31 October. The official technical information identifies apricot, apple, slate, orange zest and walnut among the wine’s defining characteristics. Additional aromatic complexity emerges through lilac blossom, mint, tansy, lichen and delicate herbal notes. The palate is rich and creamy, with smooth ripe peach and botrytis-derived concentration balanced by vibrant acidity and slate-driven salinity. Orange-zest freshness provides definition and restraint, preventing the natural sweetness from becoming heavy or excessive. At 8% alcohol, the wine combines considerable concentration with the lightness and refinement for which the finest Mosel Rieslings are renowned. Its freshness, sweetness and mineral structure indicate exceptional potential for extended bottle ageing. It can accompany seafood, white meats, spicy Asian dishes, savoury cheeses and fruit-based desserts.
“The 2024 Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auslese Goldkapsel was made with more than half botrytis-affected fruit in the wine. Once again the savor of slate precedes any other notion. Some lichen adds flavor, while mint and tansy add overtones. The palate plunges into the suppleness of ripe, smooth peach, almost like peach ice cream. It is so creamy and serene, with the ripest note of fruit enhanced and heightened by sweetness. A gorgeous frame of orange zest gives it beautiful tanginess while adding temperance and freshness.”
“This smells just like lilac blossoms in spring. Rich and compact with a firm structure, this botrytis Auslese makes a bold statement on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Quite some spices in the finish, but this is still tightly wound and you'll need patience to get everything out of this beauty. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.”
“The 2024 Graacher Himmelreich Auslese (Gold Capsule) is very delicate on the nose that reveals seed and herbal notes intermingled with delicate slate and Riesling aromas. Textured and vibrantly fresh on the palate, this is a light and filigreed, highly refined and elegant Auslese with a saline finish and remarkable crystallinity even though the wine is also based on botrytized grapes.”
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Apricot, apple, lilac blossom, ripe peach, lichen, mint, tansy and weathered slate.
Smooth peach, botrytis richness, orange zest, vibrant acidity and finely defined saline minerality.
Lingering orange peel, delicate spice, walnut, cooling herbs and persistent slate freshness.