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97 Points
The Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2024 is a rare and highly concentrated sweet Riesling from the renowned Bernkasteler Lay vineyard in Germany’s Middle Mosel. Classified as a VDP.GROSSE LAGE®, Bernkasteler Lay lies directly beside the town of Bernkastel and rises steeply above the Mosel River. The vineyard faces predominantly south-southwest, with slopes ranging from approximately 50 to 70 percent and elevations extending from around 110 to 160 metres. Its proximity to the river intensifies the available sunlight through reflection, helping create a warm and favourable environment for achieving Auslese-level ripeness. The soils consist primarily of grey-blue Devonian slate with a proportion of clay, providing both mineral definition and valuable water-retention capacity.
Harvest for the 2024 vintage began on 1 October and concluded on 31 October, following warmer conditions later in the month that allowed selected grapes to reach Auslese and Goldkapsel ripeness. The wine underwent spontaneous fermentation with wild yeast in stainless-steel tanks, preserving the purity of the ripe fruit and vineyard character. This Goldkapsel selection was produced from botrytis-affected bunches displaying varying degrees of natural shrivelling, contributing exceptional concentration and aromatic complexity. The nose reveals ripe peach, peach compote, passion fruit, lychee, candied citrus, dried flowers and floral honey alongside cool wet-stone minerality. Its palate is generous yet beautifully refined, combining creamy botrytis richness with vibrant acidity and a firmly structured mineral core. Despite its sweetness and intensity, the wine remains elegant and remarkably light on its feet, with persistent salinity providing precision and freshness. At 8.5% alcohol, it delivers considerable depth without sacrificing the graceful balance associated with the finest Mosel Rieslings. The finish is exceptionally long and stimulating, carrying honeyed stone fruit, citrus peel, exotic spice and saline slate nuances. It possesses the concentration, acidity and structure required for extended bottle ageing and is an excellent partner for Asian cuisine, fruit-based desserts, blue cheese and pâté.
The Joh. Jos. Prüm Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2024 is a rare and highly concentrated sweet Riesling from the renowned Bernkasteler Lay vineyard in Germany’s Middle Mosel. Classified as a VDP.GROSSE LAGE®, Bernkasteler Lay lies directly beside the town of Bernkastel and rises steeply above the Mosel River. The vineyard faces predominantly south-southwest, with slopes ranging from approximately 50 to 70 percent and elevations extending from around 110 to 160 metres. Its proximity to the river intensifies the available sunlight through reflection, helping create a warm and favourable environment for achieving Auslese-level ripeness. The soils consist primarily of grey-blue Devonian slate with a proportion of clay, providing both mineral definition and valuable water-retention capacity.
Harvest for the 2024 vintage began on 1 October and concluded on 31 October, following warmer conditions later in the month that allowed selected grapes to reach Auslese and Goldkapsel ripeness. The wine underwent spontaneous fermentation with wild yeast in stainless-steel tanks, preserving the purity of the ripe fruit and vineyard character. This Goldkapsel selection was produced from botrytis-affected bunches displaying varying degrees of natural shrivelling, contributing exceptional concentration and aromatic complexity. The nose reveals ripe peach, peach compote, passion fruit, lychee, candied citrus, dried flowers and floral honey alongside cool wet-stone minerality. Its palate is generous yet beautifully refined, combining creamy botrytis richness with vibrant acidity and a firmly structured mineral core. Despite its sweetness and intensity, the wine remains elegant and remarkably light on its feet, with persistent salinity providing precision and freshness. At 8.5% alcohol, it delivers considerable depth without sacrificing the graceful balance associated with the finest Mosel Rieslings. The finish is exceptionally long and stimulating, carrying honeyed stone fruit, citrus peel, exotic spice and saline slate nuances. It possesses the concentration, acidity and structure required for extended bottle ageing and is an excellent partner for Asian cuisine, fruit-based desserts, blue cheese and pâté.
“The deep nose of candied citrus and dried flowers pulls you into this very succulent and firmly structured Auslese. The floral honey character and creaminess from botrytis is beautifully interwoven with the salty and wet-stone minerality. Incredibly long and refined finish with great honeyed complexity. Limited production due to spring frost damage.”
“The 2024 Riesling Bernkasteler Lay Auslese Goldkapsel was made with botrytized fruit from bunches in various stages of shriveling. A slight touch of honey precedes notes of crushed peach flesh and peach compote, while a tropical frisson suggests some passion fruit. The concentrated palate homes in on those gorgeously ripe and aromatic stone fruit scents with a tart, alluring edge. The 2024 is exquisitely delineated, absolutely pure and precise, with heightened expressions of clear fruit enhanced and clarified rather than obliterated by botrytis. The 2024 is gorgeous. Finesse is everything here.”
“The 2024 Bernkasteler Lay Auslese (Gold Capsule) is generous but refined and elegant on the nose that indicates a certain phenol spiciness and displays exotic fruit aromas such as lychee. Lush but refined and with highly delicate and persistently saline acidity, this is a weightless yet also intense and complex Auslese with a long, structured and stimulating finish. This is a generous Auslese that will benefit from further bottle aging.”
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Ripe peach, peach compote, passion fruit, lychee, candied citrus, dried flowers and floral honey.
Ripe stone fruit, creamy botrytis richness, refreshing acidity and salty wet-stone minerality.
Lingering floral honey, candied citrus, exotic fruit, delicate spice and persistent slate-driven salinity.