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Penfolds Grange + St Henri: The Collector's Set
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Two of Australia's most enduring red wine expressions, together in one collection. Grange and St Henri represent opposite poles of the Penfolds phi...
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98 Points
Precision, perfume and site expression define the 2024 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, one of the most distinctive single-vineyard wines from Victoria’s Yarra Valley. The Applejack Vineyard sits high on the slopes of Gladysdale in the Upper Yarra, planted in the late 1990s on well-drained red volcanic soils that contribute both structure and aromatic lift to the wines. This elevated, cooler site allows Pinot Noir to ripen slowly, preserving freshness while building fine layers of flavour and complexity. Giant Steps is known for its meticulous vineyard selection and gentle winemaking approach, allowing each site to speak clearly through the finished wine.
The 2024 vintage reflects the region’s balance of concentration and elegance, delivering fruit purity alongside savoury detail. In the glass the wine displays a brilliant ruby colour with lifted aromatics that immediately signal its cool-climate origin. The palate is finely structured and beautifully poised, with silky tannins supporting vibrant red fruit and subtle spice. Careful maturation in French oak adds texture and depth without overshadowing the vineyard character. Presented in magnum format, the wine offers enhanced ageing potential, allowing the structure and complexity of this single-vineyard Pinot Noir to evolve gracefully over time.
Precision, perfume and site expression define the 2024 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, one of the most distinctive single-vineyard wines from Victoria’s Yarra Valley. The Applejack Vineyard sits high on the slopes of Gladysdale in the Upper Yarra, planted in the late 1990s on well-drained red volcanic soils that contribute both structure and aromatic lift to the wines. This elevated, cooler site allows Pinot Noir to ripen slowly, preserving freshness while building fine layers of flavour and complexity. Giant Steps is known for its meticulous vineyard selection and gentle winemaking approach, allowing each site to speak clearly through the finished wine.
The 2024 vintage reflects the region’s balance of concentration and elegance, delivering fruit purity alongside savoury detail. In the glass the wine displays a brilliant ruby colour with lifted aromatics that immediately signal its cool-climate origin. The palate is finely structured and beautifully poised, with silky tannins supporting vibrant red fruit and subtle spice. Careful maturation in French oak adds texture and depth without overshadowing the vineyard character. Presented in magnum format, the wine offers enhanced ageing potential, allowing the structure and complexity of this single-vineyard Pinot Noir to evolve gracefully over time.
“From the Applejack vineyard, planted on grey clay soils at 300m in Gladysdale in ’97 by Ray Guerin. 40% whole bunches and 40% less wine in ’24. Darkly fruited and more intense than the ’23 with aromas of wild blackberry, raspberry, briar, and just a hint of sous bois. On the palate, this is as concentrated and mouth-filling as the bouquet suggests it will be, culminating with succulent, grippy tannins on the long, tapering finish. It’s a touch more ‘sauvage’ and a little less floral than normal but, even in this warmer vintage, one of Australia’s most celebrated pinot noirs is in impressive form.”
“Fragrant and finely detailed pinot noir with aromas of red cherry, raspberry and dried rose petals. The palate is silky and precise with fine tannins and excellent length.”
“A beautifully perfumed wine with vibrant red fruits, spice and delicate savoury complexity. The palate is refined and layered, showing both elegance and structure.”
Since 1997, Giant Steps has built a reputation based on expressive wines with purity and finesse out of Yarra Valley. These are wines that reflect individual vineyard sites, located across the Yarra Valley from Tarrawarra to Gladysdale. Giant Steps was founded by wine industry pioneer Phil Sexton, who journeyed from Margaret River to Yarra Valley looking for the ideal site to cultivate pure and finessed Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Eventually, Phil found his hallowed ground near Gruyere in the Sexton vineyard, which he planted in 1997 on the steep slopes of the Warramate Ranges. The name comes from John Coltrane's album "Giant Steps", which felt like a fitting choice given the steep slopes of the vineyard and Phil's love of jazz. In 2003, Winemaker Steve Flamsteed came aboard, another muso, and the two set about producing a range of iconic Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that express a profound sense of place from six finite sites in Yarra Valley.
Melanie Chester, became Head of Winemaking and Viticulture at Giant Steps in 2021, her long-held admiration for the winery comes with an intrinsic pressure to honour the expressions and diversity of its single sites. Mel, says she is "committed to ensuring that the quality will be the same if not better.” This means keeping the winemaking tight and transparent, so that diversity of site is what you taste. Giant Steps has been advancing Australia’s reputation for cool-climate Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for the past 20 years, the addition of Mel's craft and energy will ensure this legacy continues.
The proof in the pudding. Giant Steps was awarded 2025 Halliday Winery of the Year and Pinot Noir of the Year. A huge achievement that's been years in the making. Of course Mel takes none of the credit (the best seldom do), instead she props up everyone involved until now, founder Phil Sexton, winemaker Steve Flamsteed, grower Lou Primavera and respected viticulturist Ray Guerin.
True, there's much to celebrate at Giant Steps, and it's impossible not to mention the new(-ish) Bastard Hill Vineyard release among them. Wine journalist, Campbell Mattinson paints a colourful gist of the site, "the Bastard Hill vineyard, named for obvious reasons, has been left to sleep out there on its steep mountain slopes as the bastard child of the companies formerly known as Hardy’s. As a result this should-be-great vineyard has been left out there in the cold, hidden away, myth-like, talked about but not seen, and rarely tasted, like a giant, an unlikely giant, a sleeping one." This vineyard of untapped protentional, is in the upper reaches of the Yarra Valley, planted in 1986, a vineyard too ahead of its time. Until now this nearly 40 years old vineyard had only shown glimpses of greatness, contributing to Eileen Hardy's chardonnay in the 90s and top Yarra Burn releases, only glimpses but more than enough to know the 'Bastard' would be worth the effort.
Giant Steps is anchored in the belief that the vineyard should do the talking. Every wine is a study in terroir — shaped by altitude, aspect, and soil — and made with minimal intervention to protect that sense of place. The goal is to capture the nuances of each site, not impose a winemaking signature over them.
With a gravity-flow winery in Healesville and a focus on hand-farmed parcels, the team works vineyard-by-vineyard, vintage-by-vintage. From the volcanic loams of Applejack to the red ferrous soils of Bastard Hill, each bottle speaks of where it comes from. The result is a collection of single-vineyard wines that are distinctive, evolving, and unmistakably Yarra Valley.
Aromatic layers of red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry with hints of rose petal, forest floor, gentle spice and subtle savoury herbs.
Medium-bodied with bright red fruit flavours supported by vibrant acidity, fine tannins and delicate notes of spice, tea leaf and earthy complexity.
An elegant, lingering finish with persistent red berry fruit, subtle savoury tones and a fine mineral edge.