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97 Points
Authority and structure define the Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2023. Les Clos is the largest and most powerful of the Chablis Grand Cru vineyards, occupying a broad, sun-exposed slope directly above the town and widely considered the benchmark climat of the appellation.
The vines are rooted in deep Kimmeridgian limestone packed with marine fossils, giving the wine its unmistakable chalky intensity and maritime character. The 2023 vintage balances generous ripeness with the freshness preserved by Billaud’s precise viticulture and careful harvest timing. Vinified with restraint and aged primarily in stainless steel with discreet neutral oak, the wine preserves site transparency while building quiet textural breadth. In the glass it reveals citrus peel, ripe lemon, green apple and white peach layered over pronounced crushed stone minerality.
Compared with Vaudésir’s silkiness, Les Clos delivers greater density and vertical structure, showing a firm mineral backbone and notable concentration. The palate unfolds slowly, revealing depth rather than immediacy, suggesting strong ageing potential over the coming decade or more. This is a Grand Cru Chablis of stature and persistence, ideal with lobster, turbot, scallops in butter sauce or aged Comté.
Authority and structure define the Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2023. Les Clos is the largest and most powerful of the Chablis Grand Cru vineyards, occupying a broad, sun-exposed slope directly above the town and widely considered the benchmark climat of the appellation.
The vines are rooted in deep Kimmeridgian limestone packed with marine fossils, giving the wine its unmistakable chalky intensity and maritime character. The 2023 vintage balances generous ripeness with the freshness preserved by Billaud’s precise viticulture and careful harvest timing. Vinified with restraint and aged primarily in stainless steel with discreet neutral oak, the wine preserves site transparency while building quiet textural breadth. In the glass it reveals citrus peel, ripe lemon, green apple and white peach layered over pronounced crushed stone minerality.
Compared with Vaudésir’s silkiness, Les Clos delivers greater density and vertical structure, showing a firm mineral backbone and notable concentration. The palate unfolds slowly, revealing depth rather than immediacy, suggesting strong ageing potential over the coming decade or more. This is a Grand Cru Chablis of stature and persistence, ideal with lobster, turbot, scallops in butter sauce or aged Comté.
“The Les Clos reveals aromas of citrus oil, crisp orchard fruit and oyster shell. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it is structured and penetrating with a long mineral finish.”
“A powerful and impressively scaled wine, delivering excellent density and tension with pronounced stony minerality and outstanding persistence.”
“Authoritative yet precise, with depth at the core, saline grip and a very long finish. A classic Les Clos built for ageing.”
Samuel Billaud is a winemaker renowned for his precision, mastery, and dedication to producing wines that authentically express the complexities of Chablis’ exceptional terroir. Located in the heart of Chablis, with cellars dating back to the 13th century, Samuel Billaud combines the region’s rich history with modern techniques to create wines of remarkable freshness, firm structure, and intense minerality. With a focus on quality, Samuel sources grapes from some of the finest plots in Chablis, including Grand Cru vineyards such as Bougros, Valmur, Les Preuses, and Blanchot, and Premier Cru sites like Les Furnaces. Through a meticulous approach to both vineyard management and winemaking, Samuel ensures that each vintage reveals the true character of the land, producing wines that are complex, precise, and balanced.
At Samuel Billaud, the philosophy is rooted in a deep respect for Chablis’ terroir, with the goal of revealing each vineyard’s unique expression through careful and precise winemaking. The estate’s vineyards, with an average age of 40 years, are planted on the Kimmeridgian clay-limestone marl, a soil type that imparts the characteristic minerality and freshness for which Chablis is renowned. The vines are managed using sustainable practices such as disbudding and ploughing, which help preserve the purity of the Chablis terroir while promoting the healthy growth of the vines. Samuel’s sourcing strategy is equally focused on quality, building trusted relationships with local winegrowers to access the best grapes from the region’s most exceptional sites.
In the winery, Samuel Billaud is committed to maintaining balance and complexity in every wine. Fermentation is carefully monitored, with a focus on using low-temperature settling and gentle pressing to preserve the delicate flavours of the grapes. For certain Premier Cru and Grand Cru wines, Samuel favours fermentation in 450-litre barrels to add complexity, allowing the wines to interact with the lees and oxygen for optimal balance. Aging on fine lees in large containers enables the wines to develop mineral tension and freshness. After maturation, the wines are transferred to stainless steel vats for several months to emphasise their crispness and vibrancy. Through this process, Samuel Billaud’s wines reveal the true richness, elegance, and potential of the Chablis terroirs, reflecting the delicate balance between tradition and innovation.
Aromas of lemon zest, ripe citrus, green apple and white peach with oyster shell, flint and chalk dust.
Dense yet precise, showing layered citrus, pear skin and stone fruit supported by vibrant acidity and a firm limestone core.
An extended, saline finish with citrus oil, wet stone and lingering chalky grip.