Maker:
For Chambolles with a difference, wines which are substantial, even sturdy, as well as velvety and elegant, the best source is the Roumier domaine: to be precise, because there are two others in the village, the Domaine Georges Roumier. This is one of the longest-established estate bottling domaines in the Côte D’Or. And one of the very best of all.
The nucleus of this domaine lies in the dowry of Geneviève Quanquin, who married Georges Roumier in 1924. Georges, who was born in 1898, came from Dun-Les-Places, in the Charollais cattle country near Saulieu. When he arrived in Chambolle he took over the Quanquin family vineyards, enlarged the exploitation by taking on a small part of Musigny en metayage and buying additional land in the commune, and set up on his own, independent of his parents-in-law, who also had a négociant business. (This ceased to exist after the Second World War.)
The domaine was further enlarged in the 1950s. More Bonnes Mares, from the Domaine Belorgey, arrived in 1952. Two parcels of Clos de Vougeot were added in the same year. And in 1953 the 2.5 ha monopoly of the premier cru Clos de la Bussière in Morey-Saint-Denis was acquired from the Bettenfeld family. In the 1930s this parcel had belonged to the Graillet estate, the residue of which was subsequently to form the base of the Domaine Dujac.
Vineyard:
The vineyards of Domaine Georges Roumier spans across 11.8 hectares in 9 different appellations: Ruchottes-Chambertin, Musigny (A.k.a le Musigny), Chambolle Musigny, Les Cras, Les Combottes, Amoureuses, Bonnes Mares, Corton Charlemagne, and Bourgogne Rouge. The most important vineyards of the Roumier portfolio are Bonnes Mares Grand Cru and Chambolle Musigny Premier Cru Les Amoureuses. These vine plots produce two of the Domaine’s most popular wines.
As a progressive winemaker, Christophe stopped using herbicides and opted to plough the old vines. Once a vine parcel turns 50 years old, the individual vine plantings aren’t replaced when they die. The entire plot is cleared, disinfected, and later replanted. The soils at all Roumier vineyards are primarily of a clay-limestone consistency. Bonnes Mares also has a chalky rock at the top of its slope. The Ruchottes Chambertin plot comprises small pebbles and a rocky clay-limestone subsoil. To ensure a suitable ratio of leaves to fruit and ample sun exposure, the grape vines are grown on a higher trellis.
Winemaking:
The vinification process at the Domaine includes hand harvesting fruits, and part of them are destemmed (up to 50%) depending on the vintage and Cru. Grapes are then placed in a cold soak. Then they go through a slow fermentation with indigenous yeasts. The maceration process lasts nearly 25 days and is done in wooden, concrete, or stainless steel open-top tanks. The wines rest in barrels for 18 months. This extended aging process allows the wines to be bottled without filtration.
Tasting Note:
Nose - Peonies, Orange Zest, Dark Berries
Moderate wood sets off a wonderfully elegant, airy and ultra-pure essence of red pinot fruit nose that also displays plenty of spice and floral influence and in particular, rose petal and lilac.
Palate - Layered, Unctuous, Huge Depth
The silky and almost lilting but intense medium weight flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that buffers the firm supporting tannins on the austere, mineral-driven and palate coating finish that exhibits the best length in the range.
Finish - Understated, Poised, Powerful
The '21 Musigny is an exercise in understatement, poise and controlled power
Vinifying very small volumes is challenging, and Roumier produced only 115 liters of the 2021 Musigny Grand Cru, so it is all the more remarkable how good this wine is. Offering up aromas of orange zest, peonies, dark berries and Indian spices, it's full-bodied, layered and unctuous, with huge depth at the core and an abundance of powdery, youthfully chewy structuring tannin. Contrary to stereotypes of the vintage, this really is built for the long haul and any readers lucky enough to secure a bottle should plan on being patient. - Wine Advocate, 97 Points.
Moderate wood sets off a wonderfully elegant, airy and ultra-pure essence of red pinot fruit nose that also displays plenty of spice and floral influence and in particular, rose petal and lilac. The silky and almost lilting but intense medium weight flavors are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that buffers the firm supporting tannins on the austere, mineral-driven and palate coating finish that exhibits the best length in the range. As it virtually always is at this point in its development, the '21 Musigny is an exercise in understatement, poise and controlled power. This is a genuine 'wow' wine. - Burghound.
The Finer Details
Style - Red Wine
Varietal - Pinot Noir
Country - France
Region - Burgundy
Vintage - 2021
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 13%
