Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2023

Why Tasmania? This is a question Martin Shaw and Michael Hill-Smith MW have been asked frequently since buying the highly rated Tolpuddle Vineyard in the Coal River Valley about 30 minutes from Hobart. Three obvious factors. One, the long term insurance against climate change. Two, Tasmania’s pristine environment. Three, the excellence of the state’s best wines. Whilst these factors undoubtedly played a part – in the end it was serendipity and good fortune and really compelling wines that helped win the day.

Inspired by the accounts of renowned wine writers - Halliday, Hooke, Stock. Martin and Michael decided to go on a reconnaissance trip, with little to no intention of buying. Dinner on the first night of their trip was with legend Andrew Pirie and former Hardy’s chief winemaker Peter Dawson. Pirie arrived with laptop in hand complete with climatic maps and data which proved to be enlightening. Cousins Martin and Michael Shaw aren't exactly new to wine, a decorated winemaker and the other Master of Wine, oh and the fact they own a little label called Shaw + Smith. But even didn't know just how cold and dry eastern and southern Tasmania are, principally due to the rain shadow effect of the westerly mountains. This combination of dry and cold conditions produces grapes with outstanding flavour and acidity, but without the same disease threat of wetter climates. The wheels would begin to turn.

After a bottle of Roederer, Bonneau du Martray and number of good Tassie wines, Dawson boldly predicted that “Tasmania would be making Australia’s best Chardonnay and Pinot Noir within the next decade”. Capturing the imagination of our traveling protagonists.

The following day the Shaws visited some wineries en route to Tolpuddle – a vineyard near Richmond established in 1988 by Tony Jordan, Gary Crittenden and Bill Casimaty. The moment they drove through the gate it was love at first sight. 20 hectares of mature Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines planted on a long even slope, with lean soils, forests above and water below and great vineyard exposure. Spectacular.

It took barely two days to find their perfect vineyard, of course one not even on the market! On their return to the mainland Martin made an initial approach via Tony Jordan and much to our delight negotiations commenced and were soon successfully completed. The plan was to make to single vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay under the Tolpuddle Vineyard label – making a small amount of wine in 2012 for release in 2013. And well the rest is history and no doubt, one in the making.