Only a single 'Auslese Long Goldkapsel' could be made in the 2022 season from Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Often made with a higher degree of botrytis than the straight Goldkapsel wines (roughly 50% this release compared to the 30% of straight Goldkapsel), the style could be described as bridging a gap between traditional Goldkap and Beerenauslese. Think of it this way, winemaker Katharina Prüm notes that they could have registered this wine as a Beerenauslese but ultimately felt the style sat closer to the Goldkapsel category. To differentiate the Long Goldkapsel wines, the Prüm estate marks these special releases with two white stripes at the bottom of the golden capsule, in contrast to only one stripe for the regular Goldkapsel. Sufficed to say, this is exceptionally rare.
Goldkapsel wines can work very well with desserts - ideally fruit-based dishes or crème caramel, typically nothing too sweet or chocolate-based. However, they are again better paired—especially with age—with robust, savoury food and especially cheese. With savoury dishes, you can throw anything at them, even very spicy dishes, red meat. These wines are far more versatile than most dry whites and certainly more so than all red wine styles.
Situated in the Mosel wine region, along the Mosel River in Germany. This region is renowned for producing some of the best Riesling wines in the world. Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is the most Northern site, directly border Wehlener on its northern border. Similar in aspect and conditions to Wehlener but less topsoil which constitutes lower yields and denser characters from 60-70 yr old vines.
It is impossible to describe JJ Prüm wines without mentioning the German Pradikatswein Wine Classifications that indicates the ripeness level of the Riesling grapes. Auslese Goldkapsel - While not strictly within the Pradikatswein Classifications, a producer may use a gold capsule or foil to denote a wine made with fruit that is of an even higher level of selection than the standard Auslese.
To put that into context, the lightest in the German Riesling spectrum is Kabinett (picked at full ripeness), moving on to Spatlese (Late Harvest), Auslese (Select Harvest), Auslese (Select Harvest) Goldkapsel, Auslese (Select Harvest) Lange Goldkapsel, Beerenauslese (Select Berry Harvest), and then the ripest being Trockenbeerenauslese picked as single berries that are almost raisinated by noble rot and selected by hand, further these berries are dried on straw mats further concentrating the sugars and flavour/aroma compounds. Generally speaking, the later the harvest, the longer the wine can live, so Spatlese is more age-worthy than Kabinett, Auslese more so than Spatlese, and so on.
Maker:
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Vineyard:
In truth, they are simply selections of Goldkap that show something extra - greater depth, purity, intensity and precision. They are wines that Prüm considers excellent and unique examples of their vintage and site. Katharina notes that they could have registered this wine as a BA but ultimately felt the style sat closer to the Goldkapsel category. She also believes it may have been the large percentage of old, ungrafted vines that enabled Zeltinger to attain more botrytis and go that bit further in 2022.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares - largely planted to ungrafted wines - which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards - with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Nose - Ripe Papaya, Yellow Peach, Candied Orange Zest
Mirabelle jelly and compote shine on the nose, slightly lifted, aromatic, ripe and sweet.
Palate - Pineapple, Marmalade, Candied Citrus
The wine proves magnificently playful on the rich yet refined palate. There is great sweetness and intensity, but also airy and elegant elements which come into play.
Finish - Intense, Mouthwatering, Pure Fruited
Mouth-watering and tempered, yet so intense. Very long, beautifully restrained and pure.
Here is a very lush and creamy Auslese with incredible aromas of exotic fruit coulis plus a slew of tropical flowers. So much ripe papaya on the full-bodied palate! Fantastic concentration, creaminess and vitality right through the super-long and compact finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2030. - Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com, 99 Points.
The 2022 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese LGK was made from shriveled rather than botrytized fruit and was fermented down to noble sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a gorgeously refined and sumptuous nose of almond paste, pineapple, honeyed yellow peach, tangerine, candied orange zest, fresh apricot, passion fruit, thyme, and smoke. The wine proves magnificently playful on the rich yet refined palate. There is great sweetness and intensity, but also airy and elegant elements which come into play. The energy and finesse in the magnificently long finish are remarkable. What a stunning dessert wine! - Jean Fisch and David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines, 98 Points.
The 2022 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese Lange Goldkapsel was designated thus because it was not found typical enough for a Beerenauslese, despite reaching sufficient must weight, it was made with 55-60% of botrytis. Mirabelle jelly and compote shine on the nose, slightly lifted, aromatic, ripe and sweet. The palate brings this to the fore, presenting a lovely, concentrated, vividly fruity, bright core of candied Mirabelle, accompanied by gilded, candied citrus, mouth-watering and tempered, yet so intense. Very long, beautifully restrained and pure. (Luscious). Drink: 2025-2050. - Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous, 95 Points.
