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96 Points
A rare Auslese that balances exotic fruit with Mosel’s electric pulse.
From J.J. Prüm’s northernmost vineyard, the 2023 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese is a wine of quiet power and tightly wound complexity. The Zeltinger site, with its thinner topsoil and gnarly old vines, delivers density and mineral edge, even in a category known for its sweet fruit. This is Auslese with grip and poise—an unctuous, late-harvest Riesling that still crackles with clarity.
Expect a heady rush of exotic fruit—think mango, lychee, grilled citrus—layered with a distinctive maritime and slatey lift. The sweetness is present but expertly restrained, giving way to a saline, precise finish. This is a wine for a long haul cellar, but already dazzling with savoury dishes: pork roast, miso-glazed eggplant, spiced duck, or soft cheeses like Taleggio and Brie.
A rare Auslese that balances exotic fruit with Mosel’s electric pulse.
From J.J. Prüm’s northernmost vineyard, the 2023 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese is a wine of quiet power and tightly wound complexity. The Zeltinger site, with its thinner topsoil and gnarly old vines, delivers density and mineral edge, even in a category known for its sweet fruit. This is Auslese with grip and poise—an unctuous, late-harvest Riesling that still crackles with clarity.
Expect a heady rush of exotic fruit—think mango, lychee, grilled citrus—layered with a distinctive maritime and slatey lift. The sweetness is present but expertly restrained, giving way to a saline, precise finish. This is a wine for a long haul cellar, but already dazzling with savoury dishes: pork roast, miso-glazed eggplant, spiced duck, or soft cheeses like Taleggio and Brie.
This fabulous Auslese lays out a whole basket of exotic fruit before you. The almost supernatural freshness is no less exciting... Still very youthful, but how can you resist the beauty.
The 2023 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese is clear, deep, intense and fresh on the complex and still reductive nose. Rich and lush on the concentrated palate, this is a dense and savory, textured and rich Auslese with saline grip and good tension... currently pretty closed... Drink 2030–2070.
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Tropical fruit meets crushed slate and ocean breeze.
Juicy yet taut, with brilliant acidity holding sweet fruit in check.
Long, balanced, and almost chalky with wet-stone minerality.