Product Information:
Pure bottled energy here. The 2022 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is vibrant with juicy salted peach. It needs a few minutes of air to blow off the smoke reduction revealing an abundance of fruit. Slightly off-dry, laser-edged precision with each sip with detailed white peach, lemon-lime flavours. The texture is searing and elevated. Finishing with a remarkable saline flick extending the length of flavour. A thrilling, complex. Decant and drink or laydown and keep.
Situated in the Mosel wine region, along the Mosel River in Germany. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard is now synonymous to the name of Joh. Jos. Prüm. The Estate owns healthy five hectares of this majestic site. It offers perfect growing conditions for the Riesling grape with its deep, weather-beaten grey slate soil, good water support, extreme steepness of up to 70% gradient, and its optimal south-south-west exposure. A fun fact - The two sites Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Wehlener Sonnenuhr are named after the sundial erected in the vineyard in 1842 by Jodocus Prüm, an ancestor of J.J. Prüm, to give the workers a better time orientation. The wines of the Wehlener Sonnenuhr generally possess excellent structure, show beautiful, ripe aromas and flavours (typically stone fruits, like peach, nectarine, apricot), a fine minerality and great depth and length. Especially after having been aged for some years, the harmony, finesse and expression of these wines are next to none.
It is impossible to describe JJ Prüm wines without mentioning the German Pradikatswein Wine Classifications that indicates the ripeness level of the Riesling grapes. Kabinett - is the entry-level of Pradikatswein. Grapes are picked at full ripeness yet still at the lighter end of the German Riesling spectrum. The wines and are usually dry or off-dry in terms of sweetness level.
To put that into context, the lightest in the German Riesling spectrum is Kabinett (picked at full ripeness), moving on to Spatlese (Late Harvest), Auslese (Select Harvest), Auslese (Select Harvest) Goldkapsel, Auslese (Select Harvest) Lange Goldkapsel, Beerenauslese (Select Berry Harvest), and then the ripest being Trockenbeerenauslese picked as single berries that are almost raisinated by noble rot and selected by hand, further these berries are dried on straw mats further concentrating the sugars and flavour/aroma compounds.
Maker:
The Prüm family story in the Mosel dates back to 1156, beginning with was Johann Josef Prüm (1873 - 1944) who founded the estate in 1911. By the mid-1930s Johann Josef’s son, Sebastian, forged the distinctive style of the Prüm wines. From 1969, the imitable Dr Manfred Prüm would elevate Joh. Jos. Prüm to even greater heights, today the estate is run by Manfred’s daughter Katharina Prüm who watches over 13.5 hectares of vines on the harrowing slate-rich slopes of the Middle Mosel. In The Wines of Germany, Stephen Brook writes “With the rise of so many excellent winemakers in the Mosel, one might have supposed that Joh. Jos. Prüm, with its profound conservatism, might have been overtaken and left behind. Not a bit of it. The Estate remains where it has been for decades: at the summit.” Which begs the question, what is the secret to J.J. Prüm's continued success? How do they stand out among top Mosel producers? It’s all about their exceptional vineyards: old vines at great sites, keeping the lowest yields, daring but calculated late harvesting, and a careful selection of the finest berries.
Joh. Jos. Prüm's vineyards are at forefront of the estate's success. Their holdings include vineyards - Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Himmelreich, Bernkasteler Lay, Bernkasteler Badstube and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. All of these sites are exclusively dedicated to growing and harvesting Riesling grapes for Joh. Jos. Depending on the specific vintage, the average annual production of wine is typically between 10,000 to 13,000 cases.
Vineyard:
Where the 2019s and 2021s need a few more years to hit their straps, Prüm’s 2022 Kabinetts are already shining. As usual, the power builds from Bernkastel to Graach to Wehlen. Each shows the majesty of this vintage in their own way. The positive press speaks volumes of the 2022 season. Overall, the wines are wonderfully fresh and balanced. Although they will mostly be drunk young, they will also improve for five to 10 years, and 20 years will not weary them. They could effortlessly stand up to a broad range of flavours: sashimi, lighter Asian dishes and tuna tartare, for example. But any seafood or white meat, and of course, they make beautiful aperitifs.
Prum’s four key vineyards are all located on the same continuous slope, all on a mixture of grey and blue Devonian slate soils with varying south-to-south westerly aspects. Positioned in the heart of Mosel the vineyards are named from south to north: Bernkasteler Badstube, Graacher Himmelreich, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, and Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. These vineyards have been in continuous production for some 2000 years.
The major differences between the sites have to do with the variation in the aspect (from south to southwest) and the steepness and the depth of the soil. These are subtle differences, but make for wonderfully distinctive wines. Of course all the vineyards of J.J. Prüm are renowned, but the majestic Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard that is the most famous. The revered site lies opposite the village of Wehlen and the Estate owns seven hectares—largely planted to ungrafted wines—which has very thin topsoil over Devonian slate (in some areas of the vineyard the plants grow out of pure rock!). Wehlener Sonnenuhr has the highest pure stone content of all the Prüm vineyards, and along with neighbouring Zeltinger, the steepest of Prüm’s vineyards—with a dizzying 65-70% gradient in places. Wine writer Stuart Pigott summarises perfectly, “In top vintages the Wehlener Sonnenuhr yields the richest, silkiest, most seductive wines on the Mosel. The fame of these Rieslings is inextricably linked with that of the Joh Jos Prüm estate.”
Nose - White Peach, Honeysuckle, Smoke
The white peach and honeysuckle aromas that emerge are stunning.
Palate - Peach, Lemon-Lime, Slatey
Laser-edged sip of cut stone, bracing white peach, and lemon and lime flavours.
Finish - Citrus, Gunpowder, Salt
Lacy in texture but lifted and searing, the finish is harmoniously dry and meanders on veins of salt and gunpowder.
Here is a great Mosel Kabinett that needs a bit more time to show what it is really made of. Still very young with a pronounced yeasty character that slowly recedes with aeration, but the white peach and honeysuckle aromas that emerge are stunning. Extremely vibrant and precise, the slatey acidity making this fabulously graceful. As pure as an Alpine stream running with glacier water. Drinkable now, but best from 2025. - Stuart Pigott, Jamessuckling.com, 96 Points.
This vibrantly peachy, salt-licked kabinett requires just a few minutes of aeration to peel back the layers of smoke and slate that may obscure its fragrant, abundantly fruity style. Just a shade off-dry, it's a piercing, laser-edged sip of cut stone, bracing white peach, and lemon and lime flavours. Lacy in texture but lifted and searing, the finish is harmoniously dry and meanders on veins of salt and gunpowder. A thrilling, complex yet irresistibly youthful wine that's ready now with a decant but sure to reward cellaring as well. - Decanter, 95 Points.
The 2022 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett does not really want to show itself on the nose. But the palate presents immediate clarity and poise. This is laser-straight elegance, stone and citrus. This shows such pedigree, such clarity. So poised, so mouth-watering, so stony. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous, 93 Points.
The Finer Details
Style - White Wine
Varietal - Riesling
Country - Germany
Region - Mosel
Vintage - 2022
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 8%
