Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2021

With its terroir split into two parts on either side of the Sainte Vaubourg fountain path, it has slightly deeper clay-limestone soils than the other Grands Crus. Its shape is reminiscent of a small valley hence the name “Valmur”. The 2021 vintage is relatively accessible. Even the more structured grand crus will come around much sooner than the 2020s, drinking well from 2026 or 2027, with an aging potential of ten years for premiers crus and between ten and 15 years for grands crus—longer under Diam closures, which I would like to see more producers using. Fèvre led the way, and others, including Louis Michel, are following.

Regarding vinification, generally gravity is favoured over pumps which could harm the quality of the wine. Brief and gentle (1½ - 2 hours) pneumatic pressing to obtain a gentle separation of the solid and liquid parts of the grape. Very light static settling of the juice to preserve enough fine lees so that the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations can occur naturally. The must is run into French oak barrels (aged of 6 years in average) for 60 to 70% of the harvest. The remainder is vinified in small stainless steel vats. For maturation, the wine receives 14 to 15 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels, for 60 to 70% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless steel vats. Didier Séguier describes the house elevage process and its relationship to terroir expression, "Everything is fermented and undergoes malolactic in tank, after which the premiers and grands crus have 30% oak-aging, but never in new oak, rather in barrels between three and four years old, inherited from sister-house Bouchard Père et Fils. It is only for the exchange with oxygen, which helps the expression of terroir. I want to stay focused on freshness.” 

There's an effortlessly charming bouquet with astonishing fruitiness and persistent minerality. The powerful, well-defined palate that lacks neither elegance nor roundness.