Product Information:
We can all agree that 2021 Rhône was certainly an atypical vintage that cannot easily be defined. Thankfully unlike the rest of Rhône, Châteauneuf being closer to the temperature moderating Rhône river was spared from the worst of the frost. Of the domaines in CNDP, Alistair Cooper MW says "There are of course some very good wines to be found, and plenty of decent wines". In 2021 standout performers include Ch de Beaucastel, Dom de la Janasse, Clos des Papes and none other than Dom du Vieux Télégraphe. On the nose there's leather and spiced notes, pure with good fresh vivacity. There's a supple palate with intense cassis and a herbal savoury note, thrilling fresh acidity. Taut, chalky tannins, good, fleshy, concentrated fruit and a layered, long, slightly saline finish.
Some have called this a ‘wine-growers’ vintage’ in that the heavy rains during harvest forced some swift and important picking decisions. Coupled with cooler than usual evenings, it was clear that this was going to be a late vintage. Waiting was certainly a good move for Domaine Vieux Télégraphe, this allowed their fruit to reach full maturity. While other producers lost their nerve and harvested before the rains and risked lack of ripeness. Overall, yields were 20–25% below average in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Vieux Télégraphe Télégramme Châteauneuf-du-Pape is sourced from the stony Plateau de la Crau in the southeast of the appellation, where the villages of Bédarrides, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and Courthézon converge. The vineyard spans 123.5 acres and features soil comprised of Miocene epoch molasse, which sits atop a thick layer of clay rich in stones, all covered by a blanket of Alpine pebbles known as “galets roulés.” The blend consists of 65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvèdre, and 15% Syrah, along with Cinsault, Clairette, and other varieties making up 5%. The vines average 70 years in age.
Maker:
One of the Rhône's great estates, Vieux Telegraphe is run by Frédéric and Daniel Brunier, the great-grandsons of founder, Hippolyte Brunier. The Domaine occupies some 70 hectares on the stony plateau of Le Crau in the east of the Châteauneuf-du- Pape appellation. The wines of Vieux Telegraphe are true classics - robust and earthy with strong personalities and a great track record of longevity in the cellar.
It was Henri Brunier who penned the first chapter of this wonderful family story in 1891, in the village of Bédarrides, well known today as occupying the south eastern portion of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape AOC area. In that year, he gifted to his son Hippolyte some plots of land on La Crau, a place in those days considered practically unfit for cultivation, its soil a thankless proposition due to a high density of pebbles.
The latter planted his first vine stocks on this commanding plateau, where grapes had first been grown in the 14th century; and where, in 1821, Claude Chappe, inventor of the optical telegraph, built one of his signal towers. Hippolyte’s son, Jules, extended the estate to 42 acres and aptly named the fruits of his labours “Vieux Télégraphe”. Frédéric and Daniel Brunier, the fifth generation and Nicolas and Edouard Brunier, the sixth generation
At the end of the Second World War, Henri, the second thus named and the fourth generation, had the formidable task of reviving the estate and shaping its destiny. Not content with enlarging the Domaine to a single expanse of 136 acres, he gave this classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine its full dimension, creating a “Vieux Télégraphe” style and positioning it on all the world’s leading markets.
In 2015 and 2016, Nicolas, son of Frédéric, and Édouard, son of Daniel, entered the history of Vieux Télégraphe, fully integrating the company in key positions. Manon, daughter of Frédéric, joined them in 2018…
Philosophy:
Located on the stony Plateau de la Crau, in the south-east of the Châteauneuf-Du-Pape appellation, where the villages of Bédarrides, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Courthézon meet. The unique soil and subsoil are made of molasse from the Miocene epoch (1-1.5m in depth) sitting on a thick layer of clay with high stone content. All of which is covered by the pebble blanket of Alpine diluvium generally known as “galets roulés” the distinctive round river rocks. Taking up 123.5 acres, they grow 65% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, Cinsault, Clairette and others make up the remaining 5%.
Whether their team of vignerons are labouring on the hot Plateau of La Crau, in the lieux-dits of Pignan, La Roquète and Piedlong, or on the cold steep slopes in the district of Les Pallières, they are driven all year round by the conviction that the grapes should be able to thrive and be picked in the best possible conditions. Fine fruit is essential for a fine vintage. To achieve this, they are quick to tailor each task to each parcel of vines: for instance, pruning, the spreading of organic manure and traditional ploughing are winter chores that may seem straightforward at first glance, but in fact demand great care. In springtime and summer, the same applies for the debudding, done by hand, and the removal of surplus unripe grapes and surplus leaves; balance is everything, and practically each vine enjoys its own care.
The Plateau of La Crau viens are 70 years old on average. For red wine vinification they start with hand-picked grapes, with double sorting at the vine, sorting a third time in the winery. Gentle pressing and selective destemming, is followed by 30-40 days’ traditional fermentation in temperature–controlled stainless-steel and wooden vats. Pneumatic pressing, followed by systematic malolactic fermentation. The last stage is maturation, 20-22 months in French oak foudres (60hl). Bottled unfined and unfiltered, then released at 2 years. These are classic red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, fine and elegant. The best vintages will age for 25 years and more.
Nose - Leather, Intense Cassis, Spice
Leather and spiced notes, pure with good fresh vivacity on the nose.
Palate - Spiced Red Fruits, Dried Basil, Pepper
Pure and intense cassis, blackcurrant – a leafy and earthy crushed blue-fruit note beneath. A supple palate with a herbal savoury note, thrilling fresh acidity.
Finish - Chalky Tannins, Layered, Slightly Saline
A textured wine with taut, chalky tannins, good, fleshy, concentrated fruit and a layered, long, slightly saline finish.
The 2021 V.T. is a solid effort, in line with the family's recent efforts to get more elegance in their wines. And the white wine shouldn't be overlooked, either. For more details on Clos la Roquête and Piedlong, please see those listings. - Robert Parker
Black raspberries, juicy cherries, pepper, flowers, and sappy garrigue notes all emerge from the 2021 Châteauneuf Du Pape Télégramme, a medium-bodied Burgundian Châteauneuf Du Pape offering good ripeness and fine tannins. It's already drinking beautifully and is well worth following over the coming decade. - Jeb Dunnuck.
The Finer Details
Style - Red Wine
Varietal - 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault.
Country - France
Region - Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Vintage - 2021
Bottle Size - 750ml
ABV - 15%
