Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2013

The 61st vintage, from 101yo ungrafted dry-grown vines, matured for 18 months in 81% French and 19% American hogsheads (34% new). The decision to hold back the release of this shiraz until after the '14 was correct - this is a densely packed wine destined for a long life as vertical tastings have proved again and again, intensity and focus achieved without apparent effort. Medium-bodied, but with compelling black fruits riding on the back of tannins and carefully measured oak.

Still a bit tight and cedary, the 2013 Mount Edelstone Shiraz could use a couple of more years to flesh out and round into form. Sage and blackberry notes predominate in this full-bodied, concentrated and richly tannic offering. It still comes across as slightly drying on the finish, but it's velvety, and the fruit comes through at the end, so don't hesitate to hold onto this for a decade or more.

Deep ruby/brick-red colour, the bouquet evoking smoked meats, dusty terracotta earth and roasting pan aromas, with savoury/oaky overtones. In the mouth it’s full-bodied and again very dry, savoury and layered with terracotta, bresaola, seed spices and dried herbs galore. Tannins are supple and abundant, still providing a good backbone but mellowing out nicely. It's in a good place right now but has plenty of time left.

When the 2014 Mount Edelstone Shiraz was released we reported: “Henschke has decided to release the 2014 Mount Edelstone Shiraz ahead of the 2013. “The 2013 needs patience,” Stephen Henschke says. “It is a structural beauty, though slower developing. After only three years (the 2014) is perfectly poised for release, already showing the hallmark characters of this vineyard.” That was in January of this year. It’s not quite a year on but it’s not far off. It’s abundantly clear as to why this was held back. It’s ever-so-sturdy. It’s a centre-half-back of a wine; it’s the spine around which a team can be formed. You still get plenty of fruit (and oak), with blue and black berries rolling through the palate, a sizeable hit of coffee-bean oak, mint/peppercorn notes and florals. There’s a liquorice character but it’s not sweet; it’s almost earthen and dry. You can see this wine maturing – under screwcap especially – for an extremely long time. There’s a gentle waver to the mid-palate as it steels itself for the tannic assault of the finish but it’s of little concern. Unlike the 2014, which could be consumed and enjoyed any time you pleased, this 2013 needs a bit of love and understanding before it’ll be properly ready to shine.

Sumptuous, generous, beautifully ripe red fruit on the nose – just so alluring and buxom, with serious structure and a long fragrant perfume on the finish. Sheer class, with cellaring potential that is only just beginning.